Oslo comes alive in the sunshine.

I’ve just returned from visiting my daughter. It was my fourth visit since November 2022, and my first during the summer.

The view from just below the Holmenkollen ski jump

Oslo residents make the most of the long summer days. In June, there is almost 19 hours of daylight, but the winter days are extremely short, dropping to under 6 hours of light in December. Below is are comparison photos of the same place in August and December.

Previous visits were during the cold months of November, December and March. On each occasion, the temperatures rose no higher than 10°, and dropped as low as -9°. Most days, the pavements and roads were icy, with occasional snow - which adds to the fun of a pre-Christmas visit, especially when strolling round the Jul i Vinterland market.

This time, it was a comfortable 21-26°, and I was able to explore without needing several layers of clothing, hat, gloves, and scarf. Mind you, the week earlier it had been a very uncomfortable 32°.

In cropped trousers, a t-shirt and trainers, I grabbed my small rucksack and off I went.

Getting Around - On foot

Oslo city central is compact and friendly, and easy to explore by foot or public transport. Even the suburbs are only a ten minute metro or tram ride away.

Word of warning: Keep a look out for people riding electric scooters on pavements and across zebra crossings. Pedestrians have the right of way in Oslo, but e-scooter riders often forget this, silently appearing out of nowhere and cutting straight past you!

Frogner Park

For my first walk I decided to walk around Frognerparken to Aker Brygge. At a leisurely speed, the route took an hour.

The park is close to the Majorstuen district in the west of the city, and is the largest park in central Oslo, where many of Gustav Vigeland’s sculptures are situated. The centrepiece is called The Monolith, surrounded by many more sculptures of naked humans depicting the circle of life - some more graphic than others.

The park is well used by locals all year round. Oslo’s school summer holiday typically runs from mid-June to mid-August, so in early August it was full of locals and tourists. Many people were having picnics, walking dogs, cycling, or simply admiring the Vigeland sculptures, iron-work, and his large, saucer-shaped fountain, held aloft by naked male statues.

Gustav Vigeland’s ‘The Monolith’ in Frogner Park, Oslo

A view from a bridge in Frogner Park, Oslo

From the Vigeland Museum, I followed the tram line down Frognerveien, passing Balders Gate - not quite ‘Baldur’s Gate’ from Dungeons and Dragons - on to Observatoriegata. There aren’t many high-rise buildings in Oslo. Most stores and offices are no more than 5-6 floors high, and appear more residential than commercial, which gives the city a more ‘homely’ vibe. Several buildings have murals on the gable ends.

Aker Brygge

There are shopping malls, restaurants, cafes, and significant buildings in this area.

The weather was fabulous and, compared to my winter visits, it was a hive of activity. I spent a couple of hours wandering around.

Food trucks and ice-cream parlours were dotted along the quay. People sat outside enjoying lunch, drinking coffee with their bolle of choice (Norwegian buns are dangerously good), or strolling along the harbour.

Some buildings are converted red brick industrial warehouses, and there are several new apartment complexes. Bridges cross over small ‘canals’ where owners (possibly from the apartments) moor their boats. Norwegians appreciate a sculpture, and there are several dotted around the walkways, and marinas.

Be sure to walk to the end of the harbour, where you may see adventurous young adults and children jumping off what appears to be a concrete lookout cabin at the tip of the fjord, near the Astrup Fearnley Modern Art museum. There’s even a small shingle beach.

Fjord ferries come and go. Large Color Line ferries depart for ports further down the Oslo fjord which is 100 km/600 miles long. Some take passengers to Denmark or Germany. Cruise ships dock, enabling tourists to disembark for a day trip in the city.

Aker Brygge is also where the world famous Nobel Peace Centre is located. In October 2024, the Nihon Hidankyo were awarded the Nobel Peace Prize 2024. They are a group of Japanese survivors (Hibakusha in Japanese) of the 1945 A-bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. They were young children at the time, and now travel the world advocating for peace.

Another landmark in the area is the Oslo City Hall, where my daughter was married in 2023. It has two large square towers, and this year it celebrates its 75th anniversary. This is where the Nobel Peace Prize is presented on 10th December every year, being the date of Alfred Nobel’s death.

Take a walk to Akershus Fortress, on the other side of the harbour. It was built in the 1300s and is free to enter. From the ramparts you get a bird’s eye view of the port and fjord, and can see Holmenkollen, the Oslo ski jump.

Several World Championships have been held here, as well as the 1952 Olympics, on an early version of the jump. It has been strengthened and modernised over the decades. The first ski jumping competition to be held in Holmenkollen was in 1892. It now has an abseil experience, and a zip line - which my daughter and I did this year. The 360° view from the roof is spectacular.

Royal Palace and Gardens

I unexpectedly came across the Palace Gardens on another walk to Aker Brygge (different route) - I think being an islander, I’m naturally drawn to the water. They were in full bloom, and, as you might expect, beautifully maintained. There were shrubs with large white cloud like flowers here and in other places we visited during this holiday, which I didn’t recognise. I’ve since learned they are called ‘Pee Gee Hydrangeas’. Many people were having a well-earned lunch break and generally enjoying the sunshine.

The gardens lead on to the palace. A large cream and white residence with a parade ground and statue in front of it. It’s located at the top of the main Oslo shopping street, Karl Johans Gate. ‘Gate’ in Norwegian means ‘street’.

Oslo Opera House and the Munch Museum

These are also easy to reach by foot.

In under ten minutes from Oslo Sentrum Station, or a twenty minute walk from the Akershus Fortress.

I hoped to visit them this time round, but we did so much, including a two night trip north to Ålesund for a Geirangerfjord cruise, and four night trip south to Tjøme/Venders Ende, that I simply ran out of time.

However, I have seen the Opera House building from an Oslo Fjord cruise. It’s USP, is that visitors are allowed to walk up to and on the roof. The Munch Museum is where the painter’s world famous ‘The Scream’ can be seen. This building is also visible from the fjord.

Talking of the fjord, there are multiple floating saunas which can be reserved, and are used all year round. Some in front of the Opera House take up to 100 people.

In winter locals go straight from the heat of the sauna into the icy cold fjord water. Madness! I’ve dunked for around two seconds in the Oslo fjord near Larvik, when there was snow on the beach, the air temperature -1° and sea temperature 4°. It was an experience that I don’t need to do again.

Getting Around - Public Transport

Public transport is reliable, clean, and well supported. Trams, buses, trains, and five metro lines regularly run to and from various districts.

On my visits, my daughter has purchased me an electronic Ruter travel card. These can be bought via the app or as a physical card. The cost varies depending on the number of days and zones you need to travel. It’s convenient as once it has been activated on your first journey, you can use it on all transport types, including some Oslo fjord ferries. If buying a physical card, remember to carry it with you at all times, in case of spot checks. You can find out more here.

There are a couple of options to get from Gardermoen Airport to the city:
1. Flytoget - The quickest and most expensive. Tickets can be purchased online or at terminals in the airport. As of August 2025, a single adult ticket to Oslo Sentrum/Central costs NOK 252, and a return NOK 504 (approximately GBP 18 and 36.50). It takes 19 minutes and departs every ten minutes from Track 4 of the airport train station, stopping only once at Lillestrom before Oslo Sentrum. A further seven stops and you reach Drammen.

2. Vy Train - Similarly to using the Heathrow Express versus the Elizabeth Line, this is the cheaper option and only takes four minutes longer! A single adult ticket costs NOK 129 (approximately GBP 9). These trains run less regularly, but having used it for the first time this trip, I will be using them for future visits.

3. FlyBussen - The journey from the airport to Jernbanetorget in the city centre takes an hour. Tickets can be pre-purchased online at a lower rate than buying on the bus. An online single adult currently costs NOK 259 (GBP 18.50).

4. Oslo Fjord Ferries - These take commuters and tourists from Oslo harbour to some of the islands within the fjord.

Oslo Prices

With every visit, I am growing more in love with this city. BUT! It is exceptionally expensive - eye-wateringly so!

Norwegians generally have an excellent standard of living, with salaries ensuring they can afford the costs of housing and everyday life.

Everyday costs have increased in the UK too, but as a visitor to Oslo, I have to brace myself for the hit on my purse. I’m fortunate that I can stay with my daughter and son-in-law, as I daren’t think how much it would cost for accommodation on top of everything.

I guess some of it is similar to Central London prices. However, if you enjoy a tipple or two, note that Norway has very high alcohol taxes, so probably best to buy in Duty Free.

Here’s a link to my previous post, where you can find out more about this great little city.

As I’m now a regular Oslo visitor, I have been learning the language for just over a year.
So, until next time - Ha det bra.

Oslo in Summer