The reality exceeded anything I had dreamt of.

Seeing the Northern Lights is many people’s dream, and they can be seen in many parts of the world, so why did I choose Tromsø?

I first learnt of Tromsø (pronounced trums-uh) from a photo of a long bridge stretching across a fjord to a city of glowing warm light. The bridge lights reflected in the dark water below, and the night sky lit up with bright green Aurora dancing above. I instantly knew I wanted to visit.

Twenty-plus years later, my dream came true. I don’t think there are enough positive exclamations for what I saw and experienced in this magical city – and that’s from someone never short of a positive exclamation!

Trosmø Bridge and the Arctic Cathedral during Polar Night - photo by Tina Langdon

Quick guide of what you’ll find below:

Visiting Tromsø during Polar Night aka Arctic Night
Excursions I did
Hotel I stayed in (fabulous)
Travel tips
What to wear

All photos in this post, and my other blog posts, are my own unless attributed to someone else.

The striking Arctic Catherdral in Tromsø

Best time to visit Tromsø

The time of year depends on what you want to experience in this beautiful part of the world.

The ‘Midnight Sun’ season runs from late May to late July, when the sun never sets, thereby providing 24 hours of sunlight. Whereas during the weeks of ‘Polar Night’ (aka Arctic Night), the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon.

I purposely booked a trip during the Polar Night season, which runs from late November to mid-January. During these weeks, the Aurora Borealis (aka Northern Lights) can be seen more readily because of the amount of darkness.

Tromsø is just over three and a half hours from London Heathrow, and thirty minutes before landing, the captain announced that we should take our ‘last look at the sun’ as we wouldn’t be seeing it until we flew home again.

During my visit (30 November - 6 December 2025), there were low levels of daylight from around 9:15 am, with darkness falling by 2 pm. My visit coincided with the last Supermoon of 2025. By midday, it had risen well above the horizon, providing some reflected sunlight. I had hoped to experience the pink twilight sky, but unfortunately, I didn’t. Apparently, this can occasionally be seen during the Midnight Sun season too.

I can’t imagine living in this amount of darkness for two months. It was weird experiencing it for six days, and it took two or three days for my body to adjust. By 4 pm on the first afternoon, my melatonin levels were rising, and I was ready for bed, so I had to force myself to go for a walk.

The end of Polar Night is cause for celebration. ‘Soldagen’ (the Sun Day) is the first day the sun rises above the horizon and is visible to residents of Tromsø (as it has to rise above a hill too). In 2026, Soldagen was 21 January. ‘Solboller’ (Sun buns) are baked and distributed throughout schools and workplaces. The Norwegians know how to bake a bun, so I can only imagine how tasty these large round sweet bread buns filled with yellow custard would be.

To combat the long days of darkness, the city residents and businesses leave their lights on all day, giving the city a warm, welcoming and pretty glow. I can’t deny that their electricity bills came to mind!

Things to do in Tromsø during Polar/Arctic Night

I turned 60 this year, and set myself a challenge of experiencing sixty new things before my 61st birthday, calling it ’60 Firsts by my 61st’. I’m logging my progress on Instagram and TikTok if you’re interested.

I’d waited years to visit Tromsø but booked it on a whim in September 2025. There were so many new experiences that I used my challenge as the perfect excuse to go. I squeezed in as many excursions as I could in five and a half days:

Aurora Borealis (also known as the Northern Lights)
Whale watching
Husky sled driving
Reindeer sleigh ride
Sommerøy and island sightseeing

Tromsø Excursions - Northern Lights; reindeer feeding; husky sledding; whale watching; island sightseeing

I prebooked my excursions with Viator, a company I’ve used for many years, for excursions all over the world. The booking process is informative and easy, and their pre and post-excursion communications have improved over the years.

By the way, this is not sponsored, just my recommendation.

The Northern Lights in Tromsø

‍Top of my list was to see the Aurora Borealis, which are never guaranteed to appear as several factors need to align.

Tromsø is perfectly located on latitude 69° N within the ‘auroral oval’, so it is one of the best places in the world to see this spectacular natural phenomenon.

‍I booked a coach tour and had my fingers crossed that the night sky would be clear. However, it snowed almost every day I was there, which made the city even more magical, but not ideal for seeing the beautiful green lights.

I rearranged the tour for my last night, and buckled up for what could be a nine hour unsuccessful trip. The guides weren’t hopeful, but told me they don’t give up easily, and occasionally have driven a hundred miles to the Finnish border if there have been sightings. It was great to learn that many tour companies work together so that guides get successful sightings whenever possible.

I’m delighted to say we had success.

Four photos taken by the tour guide. I particularly love the shot at the bottom. I spent two hours looking up, and he took this one when I wasn’t looking.

Around an hour and a half south of Tromsø in a place called Moen, we were treated to the most spectacular display. It literally brought tears to my eyes.

We walked through two feet deep, fresh snow into the middle of a field and over the next two hours, the Aurora got closer and brighter until they were literally above our heads. Apparently, they were between 60-200 miles high in the night sky, but they seemed so much closer. They came in waves, some displays lasting ten minutes, others disappearing after two.

The colours and shapes of the Northern Lights got brighter and more spectacular with each wave.

‍I always thought videos of ‘dancing’ Aurora had been sped up, but they really do move quickly. They fell to earth and danced magically - the patterns, shapes and depth changing rapidly. The camera did enhance the colours, but they were easily visible with the naked eye.

‍An incredible, unforgettable and emotional sight, worth every penny I spent on the entire trip. In many ways, I’m glad I saw the Aurora on my last night because the other experiences could not have matched them.

‍This was the tour I booked.

We got back to the city centre at midnight, and, would you believe it, as I’m walking back to the hotel, I look up to see the Aurora shining right above the city. I took this photo at 12:45 am.

Tromsø Harbour with Aurora Borrealis lighting up the sky above - photo by Tina Langdon

Whale Watching in Tromsø

Thankfully, the sea swell wasn’t as high as the crew had predicted (2m), so although the boat pitched and rolled as we stopped to look for whales, it wasn’t as bad as expected.

There were several other tour boats there and our patience paid off when a small pod of orcas swam past. We watched them for about an hour, but as the light was fading, we had to start our return journey.

And twenty minutes later we spotted two humpback whales. The light was pretty poor now, making them difficult to see with the naked eye. I’m so glad my phone camera was able to pick them up more easily. To see them poking their heads above the water, blowing air from their blowholes, and one of them slapping its huge flipper against the sea was amazing.

We arrived back in Tromsø around 16:00, and I took the opportunity to visit the Christmas Market and walk along Storgata, the main shopping street. I’ll write about that area and the eateries I visited separately.

This was the tour I booked.

Fun Fact: Skjervøy is further north than Tromsø. As we rounded the northern tip, it was the farthest north in the world I’ve ever visited - approximately 70.04° N.

Husky Sled Driving in Tromsø

This was another must-do for me. My grandad lived in Northeast Canada for several years and ran a team of huskies, so I’ve always had an affinity with them - or so I thought.

Until I got to the kennels, I didn’t know there are two types of huskies – the big fluffy Siberian, and sleeker Alaskan. I always imagined my grandad with a Siberian team, but I now suspect he had Alaskan huskies.

There were approximately 150 dogs at the kennels, all trained to race and well cared for. They were very excitable, boisterous and vocal, and those already harnessed were keen to get going. The noise from those left in the kennels was intense. I think they were desperate to run too and didn’t like being left behind.

I chose the midday slot so that there would be some light to see the scenery. We were out for an hour and a half, and it was hard work! Definitely not a suitable excursion if you’re looking for a relaxing sled ride.

I expected to be paired up with an experienced instructor, but, surprisingly, that wasn't the case. Each novice was paired with another novice and took turns driving. My partner explained her hip wasn’t very good and asked if I would mind driving, which I was happy to do. Unfortunately, I wasn’t great.

We were the last sled following five others, with the instructor on the first one, about 100 metres ahead. On two occasions our dog team decided to take a different route they knew, and I had great difficulty keeping the brake down. I got a telling off from the instructor, who was shouting at me to push the brake down - which I was desperately trying to do. With some effort, I managed to turn the team back on track, but the second time they pulled too hard, and we ended up too far down the wrong route, so had to wait to be ‘rescued’ in the form of being yelled at from the other side of the hill. I let the dogs lead in the hope they knew where they were going, and breathed a sigh of relief when a couple of minutes later we saw the other sleds. My partner took over and was a much better driver.

The snowy scenery was spectacular, and seeing the full moon rising at 12:45 pm was a beautiful sight.

Top Tip: Make sure you wear multiple layers of clothing, especially thermals, and two pairs of socks on your feet. As with everything in Tromsø at that time of year, it is bitterly cold, but, oh my word, it gets even colder when you’re speeding along on a sled – particularly if you’re the passenger. The kennels provided an all-in-one thermal suit with attached boots to wear over my clothes and socks, but my feet still got very cold.

‍

Island Exploration around Tromsø

‍I was genuinely surprised to find out that Tromsø is an island, one of many along the northwestern coast of Norway. I always thought it was a city on mainland Norway.

I spent my third day in a minibus with five others, island hopping, seeing the local scenery and looking for wildlife. Our tour guide was born and bred in Tromsø, so was very knowledgeable about the area. We headed west towards our destination of Hillesøya, an island just past Sommarøy (famously advertised as the World’s first ‘Time Free Zone’).

Just across the western bridge, we reached Kvaløysletta, where we saw wild reindeer walking through the snow.

‍Then onto Ersfjorden, a scenic fjord on the island of Kvaløya. The guide was concerned about the weather conditions as the forecast wasn’t great. We were so fortunate to get there when we did, as fifteen minutes later the view was almost fully obstructed by low cloud. An eagle flew over us and, although quite high, it looked like a Golden Eagle.

Houses or possibly winter cabins on the edge of Ersfjorden

‍Another short drive and we reached a lake called Kattfjordvatnet, which freezes in winter. Although the guide assured me it was safe, it was a little unnerving walking on ice knowing that below was a deep, freezing-cold body of water. Apparently, the ice thickness is around 50cm/1.5 feet deep but varies depending on the winter month and weather conditions.

‍It was 12:30 pm as we drove over the bridge into Sommarøy, and on to Hillesøya. The weather was changing, and it started to snow, reducing visibility and light. We took a quick walk up to a viewing spot and, as with all the waters I saw around the area, the sea was crystal clear. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find the sea otters that live there. These beautiful creatures have eluded me twice now – once in Tromsø and again in the Shetland Isles.

The southern tip of Hillesøya. Next stop Greenland.

‍After a light lunch, we headed back to Tromsø, this time taking one of the tunnels instead of the bridge route.

‍This was the tour I booked. ‍

Reindeer Sled Ride in Tromsø

I booked this excursion for my last full day.

It was fun feeding some of the three hundred free-roaming reindeer that belonged to the Sami family who run the tour. Most of the reindeer were calm and some a little nervous, but beware of the larger, feistier ones that push the youngsters out of the way. Their antlers can be long and get quite close to your face!

A slow reindeer sled ride followed. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but this was the most disappointing part of the excursion. However, I was paired with another solo female traveller from Brazil, and we had a great time chatting about experiences we’d done, and how much we loved the area.

The best part was sitting inside a large warm lavvu (a Sami tent) with a roaring fire in the centre, where kettles and pots heated drinks and soup, and then learning about the Sami people’s culture. As with many Indigenous people around the world, they faced huge discrimination and, until recently, it was illegal to talk in their own language and wear their traditional clothing.

Inside the Sami lavvu with pots over the fire full of soup or hot chocolate

They are master reindeer farmers, and this family allows their herd to roam freely throughout the year, knowing that during winter they will return as food is readily made available for them on the farm.

Fun Fact: I hadn’t realised that reindeer lose their antlers. I had no ideer (sorry). Males start growing antlers in spring so that by the autumn rutting season they can display their strength and fight off other males. After mating, their antlers drop off. Females start growing antlers in the autumn, so that they can protect themselves and their newborn calf in spring. Their antlers drop in spring and are eaten by the females and calves for nourishment.

So, Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Donner, and Blitzen were female.

‍Where to stay in Tromsø

As a solo female traveller, I like to book a hotel where I feel secure. ‍

It’s always a little difficult choosing accommodation in a city I’ve never visited before, as I can’t be sure how easy it is to walk, what transport links are like, and if the area is generally considered safe. I didn’t need to worry about safety in Norway, as having visited Oslo a few times now, I feel very comfortable in the country.

Accommodation in Tromsø is not cheap! Having done a fair bit of research and narrowed down the cheapest hotel options, or those with offers, I chose The Dock 69 39 by Scandic, which opened in June 2025 and is located right next to Tromsø Bridge, on the island side.

The accommodation accounted for over half of the trip cost, so I chose the cheapest room – a small single at NOK18,424/GBP1350. However, at check-in the receptionist kindly upgraded me to a standard Queen on the 8th floor.

I couldn’t believe it when I opened the bedroom door and saw the view of the city and fjord. It was 2 pm and already dark outside. I almost cried (I cry easily) when I saw the snow covered rooftops of the city below, with lights glowing into the streets and across the fjord.

I made a video to show my family, which my daughter suggested I share on TikTok - it’s had almost 130k views!

‍The hotel was perfect. The room was a good size with a very comfortable bed, greatly appreciated after the busy days. There was a small spa area and an outdoor jacuzzi, with an unexpected rooftop running track. The restaurant was a good size with a nice selection for breakfast. The reception area had a bar and a welcoming fire pit to warm up by, after wandering around in Arctic temperatures.

‍Although the hotel is located on the outer edge of central Tromsø, the city is small and very easy to walk around. All of the excursion meeting points were between a 10-15 minute walk from the hotel. Other places easy to get to on foot from the hotel were:

Gateway to the Arctic mosaic artwork, which provides a beautiful photographic frame for the Arctic Cathedral on the opposite side of the fjord - 5 minutes
Storgata. The main shopping area – 10 minutes
Prostneset Bus Terminal – 15 minutes
Arctic Cathedral across Tromsø Bridge – 20 minutes
Fjellheisen cable car – it took me 45 minutes as the signage wasn't obvious, so I ended up meandering around the houses, asking a couple of ladies in my very limited Norwegian which way to go.

Top Tip: Central Tromsø is compact. For ease, I recommend staying within a one mile radius of the city centre. The Moxy Hotel is close to the airport but would make getting in and out of the city more difficult. It was also voted the ‘Ugliest building in Norway – 2023’, but I’m sure it’s lovely inside.

The Gateway to the Arctic mosaic artwork in Tromsø with the Northern Lights above it - photo by Tina Langdon

‍Travelling to and around Tromsø

‍Flying

Tromsø is a small but busy international airport. I flew out of London Heathrow with British Airways. As with everything Norwegian, Customs was straightforward and baggage arrival efficient. Forty-five minutes later, I was on the Airport Express Bus.

At the end of six days in Tromsø, I took a two hour internal flight with SAS to Oslo to visit my daughter and drop off Christmas presents.

‍Airport Express Bus

‍The Airport Express bus was excellent. From the airport, it makes six stops:

Moxy Hotel
Polaria - by the Aquarium
Storgata - ideal for Comfort Hotel Xpress and Quality Hotel Grand
Prostneset Bus Terminal - ideal for the Clarion Edge and Quality Hotel Saga
Scandic Ishavhotel - ideal for the Radisson Blu and First Amalie Hotel
The Dock 69 39 Hotel - could not have been more perfect for me

I pre-booked my round-trip ticket costing NOK200/GBP15.50. Excellent value – and believe me, that is not a term I usually use when visiting Norway.

I only used the bus to get to and from the airport, but there were many others around the city.

Walking

‍As long as the snow hasn’t melted and refrozen, walking (carefully) is a perfect way to get around Tromsø city. You certainly don’t need a car unless you plan to travel further afield, and are an experienced winter and snow driver.

Whilst researching Tromsø in winter, I saw some awful videos of people falling over and breaking limbs on the ice. So, ‍before I left, I invested in a pair of new thermal walking boots, which were sturdy, warm and comfortable, and overshoe metal crampons.

As it snowed until my last day, I didn’t need the crampons, and, as it happens, several shops sell them there anyway. However, in areas of heavy footfall where the snow was impacted there were a few scary moments, and I spotted several people walking with crutches, so please be careful.

‍What to Wear in Tromsø

‍Good quality thermal clothing is essential.

The Polar Night weeks in Tromsø are usually the coldest, as there is no sunshine to provide warmth. The temperature tends to stay below 0°C. During my stay, daytime temperatures ranged from -2° to -13°C. ‍

What’s surprising is that despite it being 350 km/200 miles above the Arctic Circle, its coastal location means that temperatures aren’t as cold as further inland. It’s positively mild compared to the same latitude in Finland, where it can drop as low as -30°C!

I already had a great Columbia ski jacket but needed some thermal underlayers, so purchased medium thickness leggings and long-sleeved tops from M&S.

I bought a few items from Mountain Warehouse during one of their sales. Some thermal knee-high socks, a pair of thermal walking boots and snow boots – I preferred the walking boots. I find woollen clothing itchy, but a good wool mix is important. I read that thermal mittens are far more effective than gloves, so bought a pair of these too, and wore them over a pair of ‘UK winter’ gloves. The day before I left, I also purchased a pair of ‘over trousers’ from M&S. They cost £40 but were well worth it.

I layered up each morning:

Top half: long sleeved thermal and thick jumper, occasionally adding a T-shirt
Bottom half: thermal leggings, a pair of jeans or joggers, then the over trousers
Feet: knee high thermal socks and thermal walking boots
Before leaving the hotel, I put on my thick scarf, snood, hat, gloves, thermal mittens, and the ski jacket.

I was literally dressed for the Arctic.

Atop Storsteinen overlooking Tromsø. Even with this lot on, it was by far the coldest I felt during the whole trip.

‍Final Thoughts

‍Tromsø was everything I hoped, and so much more.

The reality of the photo I saw all those years ago was worth the twenty year wait. Having stood on that same bridge, seen the glow from the city lights and witnessed the Aurora firsthand, I can say that Tromsø is definitely worth visiting.

It was expensive even by Norwegian standards. The six day trip, including flights, accommodation, excursions and food, cost around £2,500. But this was one of those trips of a lifetime, and for the experiences I did and memories I made, it was worth every penny.

‍And I would go back in a heartbeat.

You can find out more from these websites:

https://www.visittromso.no/

https://www.visitnorway.com/places-to-go/northern-norway/tromso/

Northern Lights in Tromsø: A Solo Trip above the Arctic Circle